Climbing

For many climbers, the great mountain crags such as Cloggy and Scafell are catalysts for experiences to be savoured for a lifetime. The complementary perspective is safely bolted climbing, preferably in an interesting environment, optimally with sunshine. That’s why, each holiday, hundreds of British climbers rush to the nearest airport and head off to the South of France, Spain and Sardinia.
Portland is Britain’s answer to the Mediterranean climbing experience. It has some of the best weather in the country. It has dramatic cliffs poised above an ever-changing sea. It has hundreds of safe, bolted sport climbs with a wide span of grades. The famous ‘Reptile Smile’, 6a+ (E1), has arguably the finest tufa in the UK, while its neighbour ‘Slings Shot’, 5 (VS) is a contender for the best route of its grade in the South. The adjoining ‘England’s Dreaming’, 7a+ (E5) takes the tufa experience to stunning realms. A trio of three star routes on one buttress…
Climbing in Portland is sheer, unadulterated delight. Azure skies, creamy limestone bathed in golden sunlight, turquoise waves crashing into white foam hundreds of feet below. The rock isn’t really suitable for scrambling or soloing. But who cares when there are hundreds of enticing sport climbs? Portland is the Mediterranean climbing experience without opening your passport!

Climbing in Portland is of relatively recent history. The first significant routes were established by the Reverend Bob Shepton in the late 1960s. Generally they followed the most obvious lines of weakness - horrifying offwidths! As with Shepton’s routes in Wales, they have probably received few, if any, subsequent ascents. After all, the Reverend Bob was a man with God on his side…

In the 1980s and 1990s, the dominant figure was Pete Oxley. Other pioneers such as Martin Crocker, Mike Robertson, Steve Taylor, Neal and Helen Heanes and the Cook clan left memorable legacies on the island. But, again and again, Oxley crops up with first ascents of the mega-classics. He also equipped most of the island’s routes with stainless steel staples, a gargantuan act of labour and love, which has allowed untold visitors to enjoy safe and pleasurable climbing. We who climb in Portland are in his debt.
If you’re new to the island (well not quite an island!) treat yourself to a copy of the Rockfax guide, now in its second edition. It’s a sound investment - even though a £20 note will only leave you with enough for a couple of cappuccinos! Most people start at Battleship. If it’s crowded, try Blacknor Far South, packed with medium grade routes. Back Battleship and Wallsend abound in big stamina pitches. The Cuttings has more technical fare. The New Cuttings specialises in fierce testpieces, essentially extended boulder problems.
Climbers need cafes. In Fortuneswell, there are a few, such as The Tea Cosy, Jammie’s and a diver’s café down by Chesil beach. The Sugar Loaf in Easton is the best café on the island and is very popular with climbers. The newly reopened Church Ope Café is a few minutes from the Cuttings. The Cove House Inn, by Chesil beach, is splendidly positioned for Portland’s wondrous sunsets.